Our Views From The Wheelhouse

ROGER IS LEAVING …..and the port is under new ownership.

Roger Walster, who had owned Bourgogne Marine for over 20 years was finally retiring to the south of France. The new owner is Christophe, the carpenter who had installed Capri’s new floor in 2004, had installed our wood stove and had some many small jobs for us over the years. Roger had spoiled us all. Projects were done on time, and we could depend on Roger to do what he said he would do and at a reasonable rate. He wasn’t always a very agreeable man with some people, but Patti and I enjoyed his friendship very much. He was the most knowledgeable man I had ever met about barges, but he was also a student of history and could engage you in a conversation about the history of the area for hours. I loved his stories. Now, Roger was leaving. He had turned over the business to Christophe on January 1st, and even though he had not physically left he had nothing to do with the business anymore. He had sold his boat and was to deliver it to the new owners at the end of April. Roger was still here when we arrived, so we were able to get his new address and wish him well.

The day he left, he backed the boat out and went through the first lock without a hitch. At the second and final lock to the river there appeared a crowd on the bridge to see him off. I think it distracted him a little because he came in toward the second lock at a bad angle and missed it. He had to back up and do it again. I thought it might have embarrassed him a little, but he seemed to take it in stride…. probably so happy to get out of here that it didn’t matter. So, Roger was gone…..and I imagine Christophe was a bit overwhelmed and he forgot about my emails. OK…..where was I. Oh, yes….Tuesday, May 5th..

Alaine, the mechanic, changed the oil, grease, and coolant, serviced the engine and ran it for 15 minutes. So, mechanically Capri was ready to go. Christophe came by and cleaned the filter on the water heater and it is working fine. We secured the boat and drove to Ted and Charlottes for a two day stay with our good friends. I was anxious to see their new boat, “Kingfisher” and was having daydreams about Rhubarb Pie. They were also storing some things from Capri and we needed to pick those up. Our Canadian friend, Dean Cariou and Karine Marett were there, so it was a nice little reunion. We had lunch at the new restaurant in Saveaux after the original one had burned down two years ago. Both Patti and I are suffering from terrible spring allergies….sneezing, running noses and itchy eyes. Happens every year, and no matter what we take for it, nothing works Thursday,

Thursday, May 7 – We returned to Capri today, still finding things that were stored last year. We learned that Ronnie and Sue Craddock (and Jack, of course) were here working on “Beatrix” and putting it up for sale, so we hunted them down and had them over for an early dinner. During dinner we had a heavy rainstorm with lots of lightning. Power in the port blew, so we were back to candlelight dinners again. Friday, May 8th – This morning it took a Frenchman to remind me that today was “VE” Day….victory in Europe, May 8th, 1945. It’s a national holiday here and there will be festivities. I should have remembered. It’s also the day that all the Allied Nations have their flags on the St. Jean de Losne Bridge. The U.S. flag this year was next to the French flag in the middle of the bridge.

Saturday & Sunday, May 9th and 10th – Continued boat cleaning and arranging. We drove to Dole to the Cora Store for more supplies for the galley, etc. We bought 6 two liter bottles of water and left them on the bottom of the basket when loading the car. Dumb. We drove into St. Jean de Losne and saw Larry and Joan. We hadn’t seen them since Cherbourg. In fact, we hadn’t seen them leave the ship, so we didn’t know what had happened to them. They left after we did, rented a car and drove here, but they took a more relaxed time of it.

                                                            AT LAST! INTERNET SERVICE!

While visiting Ted and Charlotte on May 6th I had talked to Dean Cariou about Internet access in France and how much trouble we had been through trying to maintain Internet and email contact while we were here. He told me of a new pay-as-you-go plan by the French company, SFR, with a plug-in device for a USB port on the computer that would allow you to gain access to the Internet wherever there is a cell phone signal. The cost, with rebate, is only 29 Euros. I rushed to the SFR store at the Giant Store in Dole and bought the device. A very nice young salesman spoke good English, set the whole thing up for me on my laptop, carefully explained to me how it worked, checked out the installation and Viola, I now have internet service on the boat with no problem. I can go to any SFR store and most Tabacs and buy additional time cards in various amounts whenever I need it. I immediately purchase an additional 8 hours of time for 20 Euros.

Monday and Tuesday, May 11th & 12th - We drove to Dijon on Monday to visit favorite places and to do a load of laundry at the “lavarie”. The city has completely redesigned and remodeled the train station, plus the Internet café there has been eliminated. I had relied on that place in past years, so I guess I found my new Internet connection in the nick of time. Tuesday I had to turn in the rent car in Dijon and take the train back to St. Jean de Losne, then do the 6-kilometer walk to St. Symphorien and the boat. I’m sure we’ll regret not having the car for another week or so, but right now we need the money for other things such as insurance for the boat and the American Express bill. So, shoes and bicycles will have to do for the next couple of weeks. We invited Ronnie over for dinner since Sue had to return to England for a few days. He’s still painting Beatrix to make her easier to sell. Beatrix is looking very good, and it’s a reminder that in the next week or so I must do the same thing to our cabin roof. I have already put the “rust eater” on the places that required it. It makes the roof look like a spotted dog. Next will be the primer and two topcoats. I may have to do it “on the go” as the weather right now makes it hard to do any extensive painting. I have managed to varnish the mast with 8 coats, so that will last a year or two.

Wednesday through Friday May 13th, 14th, 15th. I finished the article on barging for “Living In Paris” magazine and emailed it to the editor. If it is accepted it will appear in the July issue. Ron and Jack, the dog, over for dinner. It rained all night on the 15th, so we slept late and piddled around the boat fixing little stuff. The rain stopped by noon. Patti and I walked into St. Jean de Losne to do some shopping, banking, and visited with our friends who own “L’amiral” over coffee. We have two weeks before we can take off on this year’s journey. Money is short for the remainder of May, so we busy ourselves doing projects on Capri that we know we will have to do before we go back to Dallas. The remainder of May – Painting the boat and planning our route this year is taking up most of the time.

Sue returned from England with our wonderful friend, raconteur and world traveler, Roslyn Zurlinden, whom we had met in 2006 in England at Ronnie’s surprise birthday party. They took us to dinner at Arburge de Paradis for a wonderful meal.

Ted and Charlotte came to visit and drove us into Dole and St. Jean de Losne for shopping and dinner. They are looking into a return visit to Dallas in 2010. Their visit with us in Dallas last Christmas and New Years was delightful.

Patti’s “must read” book pile has dwindled. She has finished three since leaving Dallas. By the way, one suitcase out of the six we left Dallas with was filled with books; a luxury one can have if traveling by ship. Among those she has finished: “Alice”, the story of Alice Roosevelt Longworth, “History & Legends of the European Waterways” by Roger Pilkington, “One Drop” by Bliss Broyard, “The Shack” by William P. Young. She is now reading Amy Tan’s “The Hundred Secret Senses” and is halfway through as of the 23rd of May.